The Devil Wears Taupe

Not all the world's dictators are clotheshorses, but as these leaders show, sometimes politics, power, and polyester combine to make fashion magic.

SEPTEMBER 15, 2010

It's all about the taupe: North Korean leader Kim Jong-il has recently gone from man of mystery to international fashion icon. While the North Korean media frequently spit out unintentionally comedic headlines, it seemed oddly appropriate when the country's state-run newspaper Rodong Sinmun boasted in April that Kim's trademark khaki jumpsuit was now "chic." Could it be his look -- "two-piece army suit, bouffant hairdo, Ray-ban sunglasses, and platform shoes," as one ABC reporter put it -- offers some inspiration during these austere times? In any case, his fashion sense has more to do with function than form. Apparently, the often paunchy-looking ecru garment conceals a bullet-proof vest, while the hairdo and the shoes are height enhancers for the diminutive dictator.

Libya's peacock: Libyan leader Col. Muammar al-Qaddafi may be the ultimate dictator-showman, and his personal style reflects his outsize behavior on the world stage. Qaddafi is most often seen sporting long, flowing, brown robes that represent his hometown of Sirte, a Bedouin village in the middle of the Libyan Desert. But he also has a strong sense of occasion. For African summits, the "King of Kings" of Africa dons dashikis or more elaborate costumes, as seen above. Other times, he goes for the full-on military dictator look, complete with epaulets and beret. And who could forget the layered milk-chocolate-colored satin outfit (complete with black beret and a pin in the silhouette of Africa) that he wore at last year's U.N. General Assembly session? It made diplomats almost forget that he talked for over 90 minutes, rambling that the Security Council should be called the "terror council," demanding an investigation into the deaths of Martin Luther King Jr. and John F. Kennedy, and offering to move the United Nations to Libya (to reduce jet lag for fellow dignitaries).

  

Western is so last season: The president of Iran is not one for frills, opting instead for a relaxed minimalist aesthetic, what you might call "dictator business casual." Mahmoud Ahmadinejad is most often seen sporting dark trousers, a solid-color button-down with the collar open, and his trademark khaki jacket, reportedly a Chinese-made $30 windbreaker he picked up at the Tehran bazaar. His distaste for ties probably says more about Iranian dress code than any American-style attempt to identify with the common man. In Iran, ties, no matter how chic, are frowned upon. Either way, those smoldering eyes and ever-present five-day stubble make Mahmoud our kind of roguish.

The brothers Castro: Fidel and Raúl Castro have for decades set the standard in dress for guerrillas-turned-autocrats. Their classic olive-green and biege military uniforms, clearly pulled from some Batcave-like closet filled with rows upon rows of identical outfits, have been adopted across the globe. Raúl, the current Cuban president, still mostly sticks with the old standard, though he occasionally dons sleek Western suits for more formal occasions and is partial to the simple guayabera, a traditional Latin American short-sleeved button-down shirt. Fidel, in his twilight years, occasionally dresses down a bit, perhaps reflecting his attempts to transform himself from pariah to statesman. Maybe it's just the elastic waistband: These days, you can even see the former Commandante rocking a Carl Lewis-like tracksuit. According to the Atlantic's Jeffrey Goldberg, "Fidel is the guy who looks like Fidel if Fidel shopped at L.L. Bean."

Power and pocket squares: Only a true fashion icon keeps it together during the worst of times. After leading the fight for an independent Zimbabwe (then called Rhodesia), Robert Mugabe dressed the part, heralding a responsible new era of African leadership that both looked to the West while embracing independence. And though Zimbabwe has become a pariah state with negative economic growth and insane inflation, he has stayed suave and slick to this day, with tie and pocket square always perfectly matched. Those pressed suits and ties come direct from the designer -- and are so coveted that his wardrobe, worth millions of dollars, was stolen by thieves in 2009. Perhaps his wife, nicknamed the First Shopper of Zimbabwe, helped him restock.

 

Red is the new black: Hugo Chávez, the president of Venezuela, doesn't just love red for its warm, earthy tones: For the so-called Gorila Rojo (Red Guerrilla), the color hearkens back to Simón Bolívar, the independence hero of Latin America who frequently sported a red collar piece, as well as the bold flag of communism. As art and design blogger Frederico Duarte notes, Chávez has three favorite red outfits, ranging from dictator-classic to resort wear: military garb with red beret, suit with red tie, and "Lastly, the untucked, plain (not at all times though) red shirt over red t-shirt is Chávez's civilian, relaxed, tropical wear."

Campaign chic: Yoweri Museveni, who attended Uganda's International Fashion Week back in 2004, seems to have learned some valuable lessons. The hat he dons here is rugged and daring -- but paired with a suit, paradoxically refined. And it's more than just a savvy fashion choice: The hat will be incorporated into his symbol on the upcoming presidential election ballots. "Where you see a hat [on the ballot], tick," Museveni recently told voters in the Pallisa region of Uganda. But the sandals over socks look? That's not going to win our vote.

Military mod: Burma's long-serving dictator, Than Shwe, has been dressing for action for decades, and he's got the look down. Highwater pants that end at the ankles show that this man isn't afraid to tread over difficult turf. The wire-rimmed glasses are a bit more grandpa than Andy Warhol, but the chest full of medals is the ultimate dictator bling. Although Than Shwe will be most likely taking off the military garb before the November elections -- he has already resigned his post so that he can run as a "civilian" -- his iconic look is here to stay. Needless to say, in the fashion department (if not in the upcoming elections, from which she's barred) Aung San Suu Kyi would probably give him a run for his money.

Fashion forward: Versatility is everything for the Sudanese leader, Omar Hassan al-Bashir, whether he's clad in a sleek suit to deny charges of war crimes, dressed in traditional robes and turban (as shown above) to drum up support in Khartoum (the walking cane is this season's hottest accessory), or sporting his military uniform to rouse the troops … in case Southern Sudan votes to secede.

All images via Getty images

 
 

CAMAELJAX

10:24 AM ET

September 16, 2010

Style(less) over substance

Once again Foreign Policy proves the maxim "Style over substance" - cause there sure as hell ain't any substance here. I guess if I want to read fashion I should read Foreign Policy and if I actually want to read about foreign policy and international relations - I would probably be better off picking-up Cosmopolitan...
Considering the amount of money spent on and media time spent on Sarah Palin's and Hillary Clinton's wardrobes during the US electoral campaign - this article attempting to mock non-Western leaders as materialistic and vain simply comes off as Foreign Policy sounding hypocritical and bitter....like a spoiled and vicious brat with a potty-mouth and a bad case on insecurity at a kid's playground...

 

3772FP

6:27 PM ET

September 16, 2010

Haha. yeah, right.

OK - we have a really interesting look at the intersection of material culture and the lives of dictators, which is a completely relevant subfield in the anthropological sciences and we have Einstein here dismissing it as "hypocritical and bitter."

Haha. Hilarious.

Um - Einstein? I know this sounds REALLY crazy and kooky and wild, but if you want substance, then just navigate to another section in the sight, buddy???

And this reflects insecurity?? Sounds like *you* are the insecure whiny one to me.

Besides, these men are responsible for countless hundreds of millions of people living in abject oppression. What do you want to do Einstein? Give them all medals?

 

KONASTEPHEN

2:31 PM ET

September 27, 2010

medals...

looks like most of them have plenty medals already, FP. but if you have something to help the puke in my mouth when I look at them that would be good.

 

EMMAFROST

6:18 AM ET

October 5, 2010

Einstein

Some say that Einstein is kinda overrated, although the man was smart; Tesla is the greater genius?

I still think though that Einstein was better although both are pure geniuses. photo necklaces

 

THRILL

4:37 PM ET

September 21, 2010

Clean Bad Credit

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WAGRAM157

10:09 PM ET

September 22, 2010

Traduction...

"...Gorila Rojo (Red Guerrilla)..."???!!!

Gorila rojo = Red Gorilla.

No comments

 

LPAZOS

8:49 PM ET

October 6, 2010

What a bad translation

"Gorila rojo" is not guerrilla ( that is how guerrilla sounds in English.
Gorila because all military dictators in Southamerica are known as GORILAS ( gorillas, yes they are like a gorilla with a uniform)
Difference, well generally the Southern cone GORILAS were right wing, and well we have our "red" ( communist wannabe) .

 

VEDOZA

9:47 AM ET

September 23, 2010

very nice news. thank

very nice news. thank you..

Website Rank

 

RASTA87

9:16 AM ET

September 24, 2010

dictator?

I guess it's of no consequence that Chavez was democratically elected twice. If the USA doesn't like you you must be a dictator (unlike say Saudi Arabia or Egypt, for example).

 

KONASTEPHEN

2:24 PM ET

September 27, 2010

rastaman go home

it's of no consequence at all if you turn into a dictator. obviously you have no experience living under a dictator. go home rastaman. we no need you here.

 

RAY GIBBS

8:09 AM ET

September 25, 2010

On display

Kim Jong-il: monster of one of humanity's cruelest cruelties--indefinite family estrangement.

 

LOVEFORE

10:10 AM ET

September 25, 2010

no no no

North Korean leader Kim Jong-il has recently gone from man of mystery to international fashion icon. While the North Korean media frequently spit out unintentionally comedic headlines, it seemed oddly appropriate when the country's state-run newspaper Rodong Sinmun boasted in April that Kim's trademark khaki jumpsuit was now "chic." porno Could it be his look -- "two-piece army suit, bouffant hairdo, Ray-ban sunglasses, and platform shoes

 

JENNYKANG

3:57 PM ET

September 25, 2010

Style

The rest of the world might think he needs a straight jacket, but to hear the North Korean state news apparatus tell it, “Dear Leader” Kim Jong-Il’s matching Ike jackets and slacks has inspired a global vogue for the style. "The reason is that the august image of the Great General, who is always wearing the modest suit while working, leaves a deep impression on people's mind,” says the government website. “That is because his image as a great man is so outstanding.”

 

NICOLAS19

6:27 AM ET

September 27, 2010

seriously?

Another "photo-essay" about FP's little own axis of evil. Why on Earth you have the urge every two weeks to make a little collection, include THE SAME countries in it, and label them "dictators", "bad guys", "evil", "devil", etc. What's the point? We all know you hate them. Why is that propagandistic repetition? Even the Soviets got past it.

 

KONASTEPHEN

2:27 PM ET

September 27, 2010

seeerieously???

are you suggesting we follow the lead of the Soviets? brilliant.

 

STRATEGIC

10:15 AM ET

September 27, 2010

Devil wears taupe

And the boy grew older
And the tree was often alone
And so the boy climbed up the tree
and gathered apples
and carried them away

And the tree was happy

 

KONASTEPHEN

2:25 PM ET

September 27, 2010

missing

where's the Saudi King? surely he's a horse in his own right?

 

JANEFONSTAD

4:44 PM ET

September 27, 2010

How about photos of non-dictators

This fashion parade of dictators in your photos are really great. As a sequel to this, you might want to offer the same treatment for presidents or non-dictator type rulers and give a unbiased and fair treatment for the fashions don by non-dictators. Wonder if they are just as outrageous - Jane

 

CARNEY

2:59 PM ET

September 30, 2010

Mugabe-stache?

No mention of the highly distinctive philtrum-only Mugabe mustache? With his dark complexion it doesn't stand out quite as much in certain lighting conditions and photographs, but it's there, and very unusual, most likely because of its vague resemblance to the now-infamous toothbrush mustache forever linked to Hitler.

 

SEKSENE

4:46 PM ET

October 3, 2010

evet kat?l?yorum size dogru

evet kat?l?yorum size dogru söylüyorsunuz
cilt bak?m?

 

MICK T

9:15 PM ET

October 10, 2010

Personnally

I like the picture of the head of the world that not only lied us into a war, but then bragged about winning it. Only to find out that he hadn't won and thousands more Americans died. And he left the country in a shambles...

But maybe that's just me.

http://www.whereistheoutrage.net/wordpress/2008/01/23/

 

VIVANCHENKO

11:45 AM ET

October 11, 2010

Why Putin isn't there?

Why Putin isn't there?

 

ANTIMKO

12:56 PM ET

October 12, 2010

More like dictators we dont like

such a biased list.