The Zoolander Effect

The fashion industry's faux pas on global issues would be funny, if they weren't so tragically inept.

BY SUZANNE MERKELSON | FEBRUARY 28, 2011

Who: John Galliano
What: Hitler rant

Recently suspended fired Christian Dior Creative Director John Galliano was already well known outside couture circles for the real-life inspiration he gave to Mugatu, the evil designer character in the fashion sendup comedy Zoolander -- one real-life Galliano spring collection featured dresses made from newspaper, supposedly modeled on Paris's homeless. But his public image took a less sporting hit this week when he was caught on camera at a restaurant accosting a pair of fellow diners with statements like "I love Hitler" and "People like you would be dead. Your mothers, your forefathers, would all be f****** gassed." The late-night drinking session led to his arrest and eventual suspension ahead of Paris Fashion Week.

(Update: After the initial suspension, Galliano was officially fired from his position at Dior on March 1. Sidney Toledano, the president and CEO of Dior, issued a brief statement: "I condemn most firmly the statements made by John Galliano which are a total contradiction with the essential values that have always been defended by the House of Christian Dior.")

AFP/Getty Images

 SUBJECTS: HUMAN RIGHTS, MEDIA, CELEBS
 

Suzanne Merkelson is an editorial assistant at Foreign Policy.

MIKE 2

11:06 PM ET

March 1, 2011

this reminds me of

For some reason, this article reminds me of that Ali G episode where Cohon's gay fashionista character and unsuspecting guest were discussing fashion. All outfits either "got kept in the ghetto", or "sent off to Auschwitz".

 

XTIANGODLOKI

2:27 PM ET

March 2, 2011

Why only blame the fashion industry?

How about businesses which deal directly with dictatorships and enable them? How about the Swiss banks which helps dictatorships and tax cheaters from all over the world with money laundering? Sure they do freeze the account of some of the big name dictators, but only if they fall out from power. How about the "journalists" who only pretend to care about other people's sufferings? How many anti-Mubarack articles where written BEFORE it was obvious he was about to be overthrown?

The fashion business is shallow, and it is supposed to be. Bashing this particular industry and not bashing other big businesses is simply stupid.

 

IRVING WASHINGTON

8:05 AM ET

March 4, 2011

That is a ridiculous comment

Firstly, the fact that the fashion business is shallow is precisely one of the observations that the piece makes. The fact that the industry is shallow does not absolve it of blame, it is what makes it blameworthy. (Furthermore, if the industry must be so shallow, it should refrain from its inane, ill-informed involvements in sensitive and important matters).

Secondly, the suggestion that the author should only be critical of the fashion industry if she also criticises everyone else who is culpable in some loosely related way is absurd. This is an article ABOUT the fashion industry, it does not purport to be a treatise on collusion with repressive regimes (which in any case was only a small part of what the article was saying), and it does not even begin to imply that ONLY the fashion industry is to blame.

 

VMC21

10:13 AM ET

March 4, 2011

I never thought I would see the word Zoolander printed in FP.

I am quite surprised that FP has published this rather narrow-viewed article.
Is this a joke?

Certainly there are many industries with questionable and downright unethical leaders (Indeed even international organizations. When was the last time one heard Ban Ki Moon give a speech in which he got his facts straight? How about the fact that he actively employs and protects a known war-criminal?) But alas, I digress.

The fashion industry does not consist of individuals holding degrees in International Affairs or Law (thank God.) It is a business, built upon artistic and social ideas, capturing trends starting at the street level and then developing products that are sold to all levels of the socioeconomic strata. The fashion industry is fueled by change and good old human vanity and an almost Icarian-like desire to transform and transcend; not completely unlike politics.

Of course, as in any industry, there will be some unethical and questionable individuals involved (which family does not have a scandalous relative or two?)

Let's apply Ms. Merkelson's little ideas to the rest of the world. We can start by judging all of Italy based on the behavior of Berlusconi. How about asserting that all Libyans are like Gaddafi or that the culture of Sierra Leone is most accurately represented by Ouattara? I am sure that Kim Jong Il is an accurate reflection of the North Korean People, just as Jean Marie LePen is the very definition of a frenchman. America is George W. Bush, just as Adolf Hitler...oops...wait... I forgot That name is off limits.

For all of the idiots in fashion, there are still more well-informed individuals:

Kenneth Cole
In 1987, Kenneth Cole joined the Board of Trustees of amfAR (The American Foundation for AIDS Research). Today, he is Chairman of the Board, and he matches donations to amfAR dollar for dollar, up to $100,000. Cole, who has publicly supported AIDS research since 1985, is known for the controversial advertising of his brand, such as its “We All Have AIDS” campaign. The amfAR Web site quotes Cole as saying, “It is great to be known for your shoes. It is even better to be recognized for your soul.” In addition to his work with amfAR, Cole also sits on the board of HELP USA, the largest provider of jobs, homes, and services for the homeless. Many in the fashion industry consider him one of the strongest, most important voices for positive change.

EDUN
Bono started this ultra-eco-conscious brand in 2006 with his wife, Ali Hewson. The pair set out to create a for-profit fashion line that focuses on raising awareness of the possibilities in Africa by ultimately encouraging the fashion community to do business there. The label actively engages in sourcing organic and sustainable materials whenever it’s possible. The brand promotes the idea that organic cotton provides healthier working conditions and is a valuable market opportunity for farmers in Africa.

Diane von Furstenberg
Just as she recognized the power of a simple wrap dress, style maven Diane von Furstenberg also understands the power of a single female voice. Von Furstenberg works with Vital Voices, an organization that discovers influential women around the world and helps bring visibility to them so they can assume into potential leadership roles. The Vital Voices Web site describes the organization as “the preeminent non-governmental organization (NGO) that identifies, trains, and empowers emerging women leaders and social entrepreneurs around the globe, enabling them to create a better world for us all.”

TOMS
By far the newest player in the lot, TOMS boasts a simple business practice called One for One. For every pair of shoes a customer purchases, TOMS donates a pair to a child in need. Many children in impoverished countries suffer from podoconiosis, which is a painful foot condition caused from walking barefoot that can sometimes even lead to permanent disfiguration. TOMS founder Blake Mycoskie confessed in a Wall Street Journal article, “I wasn’t out to do good. I’m an entrepreneur.” However, while vacationing in Buenos Aires, he learned that children there couldn’t attend school simply because they didn’t have shoes. Mycoskie realized he should start a company based on charity, and TOMS Shoes was born. To date, TOMS has given away some six hundred thousand pairs of shoes.

Donna Karan
Fashion powerhouse Donna Karan created the Urban Zen Foundation in New York City’s West Village to promote creating, connecting, and collaborating on awareness for well-being, empowering children, and preserving cultures. Karan, whose husband died of lung cancer in 2001, devotes much of her philanthropic endeavors to the research of holistic medicine and cancer treatment

The RED Campaign
Gap, Emporio Armani, Nike, Penguin and Converse are all part RED,giving 50% of their profits to the Global Fund to invest in HIV/AIDS research in African countries.

 

VIGGORLIJAH

1:40 AM ET

March 5, 2011

Not quite

Edun, TOMS and The Red Campaign all have been controversial as more PR than actual help.

Edun is now mostly made in China (http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424052748704358904575478310504593870.html), something not quite as fashionable as a photograph of a smiling organic farmer in Africa.

TOMS's strategy is contested. Great marketing, less helpful than a straight out donation from the company would have been. A good overview of gifts in kind aid is here: http://goodintents.org/in-kind-donations/toms-shoes

And the Red Campaign is not at all a clear-cut success, except as PR for the companies and celebrities involved. There are a couple of hundred articles out there, but the most amusing recent news is about the corruption in up to two-thirds of the grants made.

 

GREEN IGUANA

3:15 PM ET

March 4, 2011

A couple you forgot

There was also Kenneth Cole's ad "What would you wear to a public execution?" back in the late 90s.

And Hugo Boss designed the Nazi SS uniforms.

Most fashion people are superficial twits who make careers out of making women look ridiculous. Human rights is not something they take seriously.