How Food Explains the World

From China's strategic pork reserve to a future where insects are the new white meat, 10 reasons we really are what we eat.

BY JOSHUA KEATING | MAY/JUNE 2011

They say you are what you eat. And that applies to countries and cultures as much as individuals. The food in our mouths defines us in far more fundamental and visceral terms than the gas in our tanks or the lines on a map. So it's not surprising that the most important questions of global politics often boil down to: What should we eat?

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The Strategic Pork Reserve

China is a porcine superpower as well as a human one. The Middle Kingdom boasts more than 446 million pigs -- one for every three Chinese people and more than the next 43 countries combined. So when there's a major disruption in the pork supply it hits the economy hard; the "blue-ear pig" disease that forced Chinese farmers to slaughter millions of pigs in 2008, for example, drove the country's inflation rate to its highest level in a decade.

To prevent further disruptions, the Chinese government established a strategic pork reserve shortly afterward, keeping icy warehouses around the country stocked with frozen pork that can be released during times of shortage. The government was forced to add to the reserve -- taking pigs off the market -- in the spring of 2010 when a glut led to prices collapsing.

PETER PARKS/AFP/Getty Images 

Cornering the Chocolate Market

Labeled "Chocfinger" and "Willy Wonka" in the media, British investor Anthony Ward has emerged over the last decade as the undisputed king of the global chocolate market. In 2002, Ward purchased more than 150,000 tons of cocoa, or around 5 percent of global production. He did it again in the summer of 2010, buying upwards of 240,000 tons -- enough to make about 5 billion chocolate bars -- to give him control of about 7 percent of global production. It was the largest delivery of cocoa on the London exchange in at least a decade, and Ward became the go-to source for chocolate manufacturers looking for beans. Other investors cried foul, claiming that Ward was driving up prices on a commodity that had already increased in value by more than 150 percent over the previous two and a half years.

Ward isn't just a mad chocolate fiend; he has also made a long-term bet that supply problems in West Africa will continue to push prices up. The demand for cocoa has risen about 3 percent annually over the last century and has spiked sharply during this year's political turmoil in Ivory Coast, which grows about 40 percent of the world's crop. It also turns out that demand for chocolate is countercyclical: Hershey's profits jumped 40 percent in 2009 during the global financial crisis.

KAMBOU SIA/AFP/Getty Images

Hummus Wars 

A lesser-known and thankfully less destructive front of the Arab-Israeli conflict is the ongoing fight for bragging rights over who can produce the world's largest batch of hummus. Israel for years had held the world record with a 900-pound bowl of the popular chickpea-based dip. But Lebanon, which claims that Israel has appropriated a traditionally Lebanese dish, struck back with a 4,532-pound hummus plate in 2009. Israel retaliated just two months later when a crack group of Israeli chefs whipped up an 8,993-pound dish. Then, in 2010, Lebanon retook the crown with a 23,042-pound batch. (Apparently no one stopped to consider the Dead Sea-sized slice of pita bread it would take to eat all that dip.)

The fight doesn't appear likely to end anytime soon. Lebanese hummus producers have threatened to charge Israel with copyright violation, relying on the precedent of a European Court of Justice ruling that gave Greece exclusive rights to make feta cheese. The two sides have also fought bitterly over the world record for the largest vat of tabbouleh.

RAMZI HAIDAR/AFP/Getty Images

Bug Bites

The developed world's ever-increasing appetite for meat is turning into a genuine environmental catastrophe, as the raising of livestock to feed that appetite now generates up to 20 percent of the greenhouse gases driving global warming, according to the United Nations. Many environmentalists advocate vegetarianism -- or at least eating less meat -- as a solution. But the U.N.'s Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO) is asking consumers to consider another option: eating insects.

An insect-based diet could provide just as much protein as meat (plus key vitamins and minerals) with far fewer emissions, the FAO says. And breeding insects such as locusts, crickets, and mealworms emits one-tenth the amount of methane that raising livestock does, scientists say.

The idea isn't as far-out as one might think. More than 1,000 insects are already known to be eaten in about 80 percent of the world's countries, though the idea remains a source of revulsion in the Western world. The FAO  is putting its money where its mouth is, investing in insect-farming projects in Laos, where locusts and crickets are already popular delicacies. A world conference on insect eating is planned for 2013.

HOANG DINH NAM/AFP/Getty Images

The Doomsday Pepper Vault

Where should you go for a good meal after the apocalypse? Try Svalbard, a remote island archipelago more than 600 miles north of mainland Norway, where a unique facility has been built inside a mountain to safeguard the world's future food supply in case of catastrophe.

Officially opened in 2008, the Svalbard Global Seed Vault is built 426 feet under the mountain's surface. The $6.7 million facility will eventually store 4.5 million frozen seed samples from more than 100 countries. Many countries host their own food banks, but the Global Crop Diversity Trust, an international coalition dedicated to food security, decided to build the facility as a backup. The site was chosen for its remote location, low temperatures, and low level of seismic activity.

And if you were worried that your food would be bland in the post-apocalyptic future, fret no more. In 2010, a delegation of U.S. senators delivered a collection of North American chili peppers, including Wenk's Yellow Hots and San Juan Tsiles, to be preserved for all eternity.

Larsen, Hakon Mosvold/AFP/Getty Images

Colonel Sanders Imperialism

In the early days of Egypt's anti-government uprising this winter, some journalists attempted to label it the "Koshary Revolution" after Egypt's traditional dish of rice, lentils, macaroni, and fried onions. But Hosni Mubarak's embattled regime was hoping to tie the protesters to a more sinister foodstuff: Kentucky Fried Chicken.

Reports on state television described protesters in Cairo's Tahrir Square munching on free buckets of KFC, seeing them as proof of subversive foreign influence, though independent journalists at the scene couldn't find a particularly high number of KFC eaters. The U.S. chain has about 100 restaurants in Egypt, compared with fewer than 60 for McDonald's, but the price of a meal, which can be up to three days' wages, makes it a rare delicacy for most Egyptians. There were also reports of the government paying its thugs with chicken dinners, and street vendors jokingly began shouting "Kentucky" to hawk everything from popcorn to falafel.

Surprisingly, this wasn't the first time that KFC has been cast as the enemy in the Muslim world. In 2006, Pakistani rioters burned down a KFC in response to the Danish Mohammed cartoons controversy. This followed another -- and seemingly even more random -- burning of a KFC one year earlier by a mob angered by a suicide bombing at a mosque in Karachi.

Arif Ali/AFP/Getty Images

Superfood of the Incas … Stolen by Yuppies

The trendiest new staple at your local Whole Foods is probably quinoa, an Andean grain so high in minerals, protein, and amino acids that the FAO says it can be substituted for mother's milk. Quinoa was introduced to the North American market three decades ago, but since 2000 it has really taken off, with the price jumping nearly sevenfold. That's great news for the Bolivian farmers who produce the vast majority of the world's supply, but it may be bad news for the country's health. With their country now exporting around 90 percent of its quinoa crop, many Bolivians simply can't afford it anymore. Domestic quinoa consumption has fallen 34 percent in the last five years, and health officials fear a rise in obesity rates as Bolivians abandon the highly nutritious grain they've enjoyed since the time of the Incas and switch to imported staples like rice and white bread. President Evo Morales's government has even designated quinoa a "strategic" foodstuff and included it in a subsidized food parcel for pregnant women. But more drastic measures may be needed to keep up with the insatiable demand of Western foodies. Let's hope for Egypt's sake that the Whole Foods set doesn't develop a taste for koshary anytime soon.

AIZAR RALDES/AFP/Getty Images

The Gold (Cabbage) Rush

South Koreans take their national staple, kimchi, very seriously. There's a museum dedicated to the fermented cabbage dish in Seoul, and servings of it were shot into space along with the country's first astronaut. So in the fall of 2010, when kimchi prices began soaring because of poor weather conditions and a bad cabbage harvest, Koreans predictably freaked out.

As prices increased nearly fourfold -- it normally costs $4 to $5 for a meal -- consumers began referring to the dish as geum-chi, the Korean word for gold, and demanded the government take action. Pundits lambasted President Lee Myung-bak for suggesting that Koreans try eating cheaper North American cabbage. To head off potential unrest -- or even a kimchi revolution -- the Seoul city government began a kimchi bailout program, assuming 30 percent of the cost of an emergency supply of cabbage it purchased from rural farmers. The national government also grudgingly reduced tariffs on imported Chinese cabbage, betting, successfully, that more cabbage would bring prices back down. Fear of Chinese dominance over their national food supply, it turned out, didn't trump Koreans' love of spicy vegetables.

JUNG YEON-JE/AFP/Getty Images

Canada's Hunt Country

There are few political statements more striking than plunging a carving knife into one of the world's cuddlier endangered species and eating its raw heart on camera. That's just what Canadian Governor-General Michaëlle Jean -- then Queen Elizabeth II's representative in the Canadian government -- did during a 2009 visit to indigenous communities in northern Canada, a few weeks after the European Union slapped a ban on Canadian seal products.

Indigenous Canadians are legally permitted to hunt a small number of seals per year, as they have for centuries. But, more controversially, commercial fishermen are allowed to kill up to 280,000 seals per year. Seal meat is an increasingly popular delicacy in Montreal's chicest restaurants, and the issue has become a matter of national pride for Canada's Conservative government, which invited chefs to serve seal meat in the Canadian Parliament cafeteria in 2010 to protest the EU ban.

Scientists call animals like seals and whales -- which are controversially hunted in Japan and Iceland -- "charismatic megafauna" because their appearance and appeal to humans have become a survival advantage. But with the world's human population and food prices skyrocketing, cuteness may not be enough to save these animals for much longer.

Getty Images

R U Hungry?

It might seem inconceivable that people with no access to food would own cell phones, but as prices fall and phone ownership becomes more of a necessity of modern life, it's not as unheard of as one might think. This may be a sad reflection on the modern world, but it also provides aid agencies with a rare opportunity to help those in need.

In 2007, the U.N. World Food Program (WFP) began experimenting with cell-phone-based aid when it sent around 10,000 text messages to Iraqi refugees living in Syria, alerting them to a new food distribution program. In 2009, the wfp began a pilot program to deliver vouchers for food aid via cell phone to refugees living in Damascus. The agency initially targeted about 1,000 refugee families, who received a $22 voucher every two months that could be exchanged for staples like rice, wheat, and chickpeas at selected shops.

Surprisingly, though many families had difficulty keeping food on the table, the WFP reported that nearly all of the 130,000 refugees receiving food aid from the broader program owned a cell phone. The program was a success, and in late 2010, it was expanded to thousands more refugees living outside the capital. With more than 379 million cell-phone users as of 2009 in Africa, the world's poorest continent, the potential for growth is nearly limitless.

YASUYOSHI CHIBA/AFP/Getty Images

 

Joshua E. Keating is an associate editor at Foreign Policy.

 

FRED_J9

8:13 AM ET

April 25, 2011

what a pork !!

we are disgusting !! look what we eat pigs !! Pork !! the worst meat in the world as mentioned in quran.

 

GREYSEAS

1:46 PM ET

May 2, 2011

yumm

i am going to assume you have never tried pork belly or bbq pulled pork sandwiches ::drool::

 

NASOCHKAS

2:33 PM ET

May 10, 2011

mm pork

Pork belly, bacon, a smothered pork chop, memphis style ribs, a nice rillette, oh man..i'm hungry.

 

PAGAL

10:08 AM ET

May 14, 2011

Leviticus 11 - Clean and Unclean Animals

A. Laws regarding eating animals of land, sea, and air.
1. (1-8) Eating mammals.
Now the Lord spoke to Moses and Aaron, saying to them, "Speak to the children of Israel, saying, 'These are the animals which you may eat among all the animals that are on the earth: Among the animals, whatever divides the hoof, having cloven hooves and chewing the cud; that you may eat. Nevertheless these you shall not eat among those that chew the cud or those that have cloven hooves: the camel, because it chews the cud but does not have cloven hooves, is unclean to you; the rock hyrax, because it chews the cud but does not have cloven hooves, is unclean to you; the hare, because it chews the cud but does not have cloven hooves, is unclean to you; and the swine, though it divides the hoof, having cloven hooves, yet does not chew the cud, is unclean to you. Their flesh you shall not eat, and their carcasses you shall not touch. They are unclean to you.'"
a. Among the animals, whatever divides the hoof, having cloven hooves and chewing the cud; that you may eat: The rule was simple. If an animal had a divided hoof (not a single hoof as a horse has), and chewed its cud, it could be eaten.
b. These you shall not eat among those that chew the cud or those that have cloven hooves: For example, the camel, the rock hyrax, and the hare all chew the cud, but do not have divided hooves - instead, they have paws - they are considered unkosher.
c. And the swine, though it divides the hoof, having cloven hooves, yet does not chew the cud, is unclean to you: Additionally, the swine has a divided hoof, but it does not chew the cud - so it is considered unkosher.
i. “It is now known that the pig is the intermediate host for several parasitic organisms, some of which can result in tapeworm infestation. One of these worms, the Taenia solium, grows to about 2.5 m in length, and is found in poorly cooked pork.” (Harrison)
d. Their flesh you shall not eat, and their carcasses you shall not touch: If an animal was considered unclean, one obviously could not eat it. Yet additionally, one could not touch an unclean animal, whether living or dead.
i. God was not making up new rules for Israel. Noah knew about clean and unclean animals (Genesis 7:2, 8:20). God simply codified what was already in the traditions of Israel.

 

ANDREW.R

10:50 AM ET

April 25, 2011

Great Article

It is very interesting how food can so drastically shape much of the world's domestic and foreign policy, thank you FP.

 

BLOGAS

11:08 AM ET

April 25, 2011

Ugly but true things.

Ugly but true things.

 

WILLIPLANTSMAN

1:44 PM ET

April 25, 2011

Making light of it

Food is sunlight in locked organic tissue. If it's organic, its food to someone. The issue isn't food, its fair share. We won't solve it until we can control our urges and control population growth. Lovely strategies denied by our inner neaderthal.

 

ROGUEDROID

10:30 PM ET

May 6, 2011

Fair to Move

If you feel fair to Share why not Move to some Sand Filled Land? The reason Humanity has survived so long is simple , the smart ones left (some were sold by their "brothers " and forcably"evacuated" ) and MOVED out. Got it??

 

XTIANGODLOKI

2:23 PM ET

April 26, 2011

I am gonna go have some pork and seals

Food is food and you are what you eat.

 

ROGUEDROID

10:23 PM ET

May 6, 2011

Spotted Owl Anyone

Freshly Clubbed I hope?

 

ALLOPTIONSONTHETABLE

7:41 PM ET

April 27, 2011

Slant

There's a slant to this one about KFC that it's only Middle Eastern countries who protest by attacking KFC. BAck in the 80's, I recall hearing that terrorists in Peru used to bomb KFCs in Lima regularly. As I heard it, they would go in with guns blazing, tell everyone to get out, and blow it up. So, there are other precedents!

 

COREYMOORE

12:02 AM ET

April 29, 2011

Are what you eat

Personally I would rather spend a few minutes and use a few simple dessert recipes than dine on the swine. Just my opinion though.

 

CHRISTURNER

10:23 AM ET

April 29, 2011

Pigs

Pigs are not discusting, they give us bacon!! Worship the bacon!

That pig photo is fantastic.

 

BOBKOURE

7:02 AM ET

May 2, 2011

normal 'granary' for pork

I find it interesting that China has a normal granary for pork. I guess that that makes sense as the first historical normal granary (AKA ever-normal granary, AKA buffer stock scheme) appears to have been under the Song dynasty.

Even though we have industrialized agriculture, it's still at the mercy of the weather.
The point of a normal granary is to stabilize food supply and price. It removes some of the risk from farming where you're damned if you 'do' (good year - over supply and prices crash) or 'don't' (bad year - under supply, prices soar, but little to sell).

The US had one, created under the pre-WWII FDR administration, but we (IMO sadly) gave it up under the Nixon administration to lower food prices (short term price effect, but long term enough to remove food prices as an election issue). We'd do well to go back to it, especially now, particularly in the face of global warming, which brings with it more chaotic weather patterns.

 

REINER123

8:56 AM ET

May 2, 2011

Gas from pork

I generally used to stay away from pork because of my religious beliefs. I always had a thought that apart from meat nothing can be done. However, I have changed my attitude, after reading Tajine’s comments about the way making methane digesters using plastic pallets or sort of large septic like tanks to convert the manure to methane.

 

REINER123

8:59 AM ET

May 2, 2011

Gas from pork

I generally used to stay away from pork because of my religious beliefs. I always had a thought that apart from meat nothing can be done. However, I have changed my attitude, after reading Tajine’s comments about the way making methane digesters using plastic pallets or sort of large septic like tanks to convert the manure to methane.

 

REINER123

8:59 AM ET

May 2, 2011

Gas from pork

I generally used to stay away from pork because of my religious beliefs. I always had a thought that apart from meat nothing can be done. However, I have changed my attitude, after reading Tajine’s comments about the way making methane digesters using plastic pallets or sort of large septic like tanks to convert the manure to methane.

 

HGH INJECTIONS

9:54 AM ET

May 2, 2011

pork!!!

pork has a high cholesterol content. It makes one fat.. I'd rather eat chicken meat...

 

YUSUKE

11:21 AM ET

May 23, 2011

pork!!!

Yeah, the cholesterol level in pig are high, especially the brain. So take less of the pork or else it is also not healthy for us.

Beng Keat
How To Get Rid of Warts

 

LANCEBRETT

1:01 AM ET

May 3, 2011

The image makes me sick

If we REALLY are what we eat, maybe i should never eat pork again. The image makes me sick. But we can't deny that meat is required for human being. We work for food.
It sounds strange but i come up with the idea that why we don't motivate employees by give them extra food or something related.
Just a idea :)

 

MYAFZAM

9:34 PM ET

May 5, 2011

True

I definitly agree with word "you are what you eat". when you are eat bad thing, so it would influence your body and you mind.

Afzam
Hemorrhoid Treatment

 

TIMOTO

5:04 AM ET

May 7, 2011

Just surviving

And so what? I eat a lot of pork, because it tastes better then chicken and it's much nutrient. Do you think chickens are "clean" food. Have you ever seen where a chicken farm and what they eat. A chicken is made from egg to dunner for ONE month, do you think this is healthy? Everything outside the breag bags is not as clean, but who cares. 1 bill. people are starving and we started thinking why are we eating pork? At least we can!

And how about the hamburgers with "meat", do you know what are they made from? Do you still think we are what we eat? :D

-Kolev
Elite Blogging

 

ALEXANDER JAMES

10:06 PM ET

May 8, 2011

Pork is a dirty meat

A future where we eat insects? Not a future I'd look forward to. There's a big push to grow foods locally and Rocky Creek Austin is certainly no exception. Some places are more hotbeds than others. But as the food wars heat up being able to not rely on the local grocery store is going to be key. Plus natural foods are far better building blocks for the body than processed foods.

And to remark about some of the other comments pork is a dirty meat because they roll around in mud and their own feces much of the time. Plus they're packed together in close quarters and don't get much exercise.

 

AVERROES

3:34 PM ET

May 12, 2011

Endangered?

There is an error in this article: The Canadian harp seal is -not- endangered, and is classified as a species of 'least concern' by the IUCN. Hunting animals is far more humane than birthing a streroid-pumped animal in a prison, making it grow so fast its legs can fracture, and then killing it without ever having seen sunlight.

You can argue for the humane nature of vegetarianism in general (and I think you'd be right), but picking on the seal hunt in particular is just shallow concern for what's attractive/cute, not for what's right.

 

KEHYSLOP

1:52 PM ET

May 13, 2011

Incorrect information about seal hunt

Yes, seals are cute, but they're not endangered in Atlantic Canada where most of our seal hunt takes place. The estimated size of our harp seal population—the seals hunted for their meat and pelts in this country—is 5.6 million. That's not endangered. It's definitely a controversial topic, but misinformation doesn't help anyone's argument.

 

ADAM GARDNER

1:52 AM ET

May 14, 2011

We can't solve it until we

We can't solve it until we are able to Adam Gardner control our urges and management population growth.

 

GREGORY M

3:31 AM ET

May 16, 2011

Unbelievable - Must Be Lots Of Mud In China

It is truly unbelievable just how many pigs China has! No pun intended...1 pig for every 3 people, that's amazing. I really had no idea that pork was the worldwide brands that represents China as far as meat goes. And like other people said, there is so much different kind of "pig meat": bacon, pulled pork, BBQ pulled pork, ham, etc - these are some of the most popular meats in America!

How did they get so many pigs anyways, do they breed them or something?

Either way, it's truly unbelievable that they have more pigs than the next 43 countries combined - there must also be a lot of mud in China!

 

EDUKATE

9:09 AM ET

May 18, 2011

Lots of Porkies being told I reckon

If you took pork away from China, that huge empire would crumble. Every chinese person I know venerates pork and I challenge anyone to say that Dim Sum made from anything else aside from pork tastes good, because it simply does not.
With the fat taken off , I think lean pork meat is every bit as healthy as chicken.
But .....what would the old pork roast be without the crackling on the top?

Uti Treatment

 

ADAM GARDNER

11:31 PM ET

May 18, 2011

The issue isn't food, its

The issue isn't food, its honest share. We can't solve it until we are able to control our urges and management population growth. Adam Gardner Pretty strategies denied by our interior neanderthal.

 

ROS G

9:56 AM ET

May 19, 2011

Food For Thought

It has to be a fact that almost all meat is intensively reared as there isn't enough to go round, in spite of attempts to grow the animals organically. This inevitably leads to disease, followed by necessary culling either before or after it has spread to us humans!

Pigs are natuarally very clean animals in spite of their appearance and I really wish I could be a vegetarian but I'm afraid I just love all kinds of animal meat, particularly pork.

We are what we eat and are omnivores - we need the protein and even some of the fat. Yum, crispy crackling!

 

JUDITA

7:08 PM ET

May 19, 2011

Our lifestyle

Food is just a part of our lifestyle. If it has to change, it will for survival but why should we if we don't have to? One man's meat is another poison. rover north

 

ALICEWEISS2011

3:12 AM ET

May 20, 2011

How Food Explains the World

Whether its the pork or not is the issue, we need to watchful of what we it. Its not being conservative or what on how to take care yourself now if you would want to be a part of the future.
Insulation