
RIYADH — Thirty-nine-year-old Maha al-Qahtani stepped out of her bedroom of her family's apartment about 9:30 a.m. Friday. Her lipstick was on, her hair swept back. A folded prayer rug and packed overnight bag were tucked under her arms, in case Maha -- a Saudi wife, mother and IT specialist -- was about to begin an extended stint in jail.
Maha turned to her husband Mohammed al-Qahtani, waiting for her in the living room.
"Yalla," she said. "Let's go."
With that -- and a nervous burst of laughter between the couple a few minutes later when her husband handed her the car keys -- Maha moved to the vanguard in what is currently the hottest political issue in Saudi Arabia, where lavish public-welfare programs have helped tame the unrest roiling much of the Arab world.
Saudi activists, encouraged by the Arab Spring and by the outlets for expression offered through Facebook and Twitter, declared Friday a day for Saudi women to take to the streets, behind steering wheels.
Saudi Arabia remains perhaps the only country in the world where women are banned from driving -- even though no law explicitly bars Saudi women from driving. Saudi leaders from King Abdullah on down have said they believe Saudi women should be allowed to drive.
Inside and outside Saudi Arabia, some tend to see the ban as a frivolous issue -- the stereotype being a Saudi woman princess in sunglasses wanting a little independence as she drives to Starbucks for a latte.
Activists and writers like Eman Fahad al Nafjan, a blogger, doctoral student, and mother in Riyadh, call the impact of the ban profound, saying that it limits women's mobility into female employment and education, despite efforts by King Abdullah to boost both. And in a kingdom that the International Labor Organization says is the only country in the Gulf Cooperation Council with a significant poverty rate, the ban is a drain on the resources of women, forcing many households to pay thousands of dollars a year for drivers, opponents say.
Saudi's religious fundamentalists are dead opposed to lifting the ban. Their support for the monarchy is typically seen as essential to the kingdom's stability.
"In Egypt the issue is the constitution, civil rights, democracy" -- matters that challenged the very existence of the Egyptian government, Nafjan, the blogger, said over coffee on the eve of the protest.
Here, "our issue is no threat to the government -- whether women drive or not," Nafjan said. With the biggest controversy in the kingdom being such a mild one, "the Saudi strategy is to prolong it" rather than clear it out of the way, Nafjan argued, lest a potentially more existential threat to Saudi's monarchy move forward as the next hot issue.
Calls for and against Friday's driving protest were the greatest since 1990, when groups of Saudi women publicly took the wheel of their cars amid the regional upheaval of the Gulf War. Saudi authorities retaliated by trying to block those women from jobs and patronage, and isolate them and their families.
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