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Historian J. Gerson da Cunha, writing in 1900, called Bombay "the Alexandria of India." Like the fashionable colonial outpost near the Suez Canal -- the so-called "highway to India" -- Bombay entered the 20th century as a particularly bright jewel in the crown of the British Empire.
Under the stewardship of the British East India Company, the transformation of Bombay (now Mumbai) from an archipelago of island fishing villages to commercial center was swift; roads and railways sprang up to connect the city to the rest of the subcontinent, and a massive engineering project to backfill the area between the city's seven constituent islands was completed in 1845. Almost entirely a British colonial creation, Bombay had become one of the most important seaports on the Arabian Sea by 1900.
Today, Mumbai is again in a period of flux. Besides being one of the world's most heavily populated cities and India's financial hub, the metropolis has seen its skyline transformed mightily in the last half-century. Its elegant Indo-Gothic and Victorian spires (seen above, circa 1930) are now dwarfed by massive colorless high-rises; and new architectural projects like the Rajiv Gandhi Sea Link bridge, connecting Mumbai with a northern suburb, have remade the city as a cluttered urban jumble that da Cunha would hardly recognize.
Hulton Archive/Getty Images
Above, attendees at a Bombay party relax in style in 1910. The period of British rule known as the Raj (1858-1947) was a time of great decadence in Bombay. The iconic Taj Mahal hotel, attacked by Pakistani terrorists in 2008, is perhaps the greatest surviving relic of this era.
But then, as now, inequality was a fact of life in the city. And beyond rapid population growth, not much has changed in the interceding century for the city's urban poor. According to the 2001 census, 6.5 million Mumbai residents live in slums, mostly along the sea, in national parks, and on salt pans. Most still live without running water or functioning toilets; even the tarpaulin and sheet-metal slums bear a striking resemblance to the mud huts of yore.
Hulton Archive/Getty Images
In 1900, much of Bombay's population was transient, and the city was home to less than 1 million people. As James Douglas, then the sheriff of Bombay, recounted in his 1900 portrait, Glimpses of Old Bombay and Western India: "To the native and the European, but chiefly to the latter, Bombay is a city of temporary habitation."
Today's Mumbai is a final destination. A symbol of opportunity for Indians, its population has exploded in recent years to more than 20 million.
George Grantham Bain Collection (Library of Congress)
Above, the Bombay Rugby Team plays a league match in 1926. Excitement over rugby has dissipated in the post-colonial era -- cricket, Britain's other athletic export, reigns supreme -- but India did participate in the rugby sevens, a seven vs. seven variant of the game, when it hosted the Commonwealth Games in 2010.
Father Browne/Universal Images Group/Getty Images
Lacking the classic minarets on display in, say, Cairo or Istanbul, this mosque (captured here in a photo from the 1910s) nonetheless captures Bombay's cultural efflorescence around the turn of the 20th century. A thriving modernist Islamic movement inspired by Sir Syed Ahmed Khan, founder of the Mohammedan Anglo-Oriental College (today the Aligarh Muslim University) in Aligarh, allowed for a tremendous outflow of art and ideas during this period. By the time George Curzon, viceroy to India, visited Aligarh (in North India) in 1901, science, philosophy, and Islamic culture were all a part of the English-language curriculum.
Since then, a rising tide of Hindu nationalism has attempted to homogenize the once cosmopolitan city. This has manifested itself most obviously in discrimination -- and often violence -- against India's Muslim population, which at more than 138 million is the world's third-largest Muslim population. Another facet of the nationalist movement has been the systematic redubbing of villages, streets, and buildings in the Marathi language. The official renaming of Bombay as Mumbai in 1995 is one result of this campaign.
National Photo Company Collection (Library of Congress)
Young boys pose in front of Bombay's Victoria Terminus railway station, circa 1910. Designed by Frederick William Stevens in the style of Gothic Revival, the station was completed in 1887. It continues to greet travelers to Mumbai under its new name, "Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus." Today, Mumbai's notoriously rickety trains transport more than 7 million passengers daily.
Popperfoto/Getty Images
Above, Henry Staveley Lawrence, acting governor of Bombay from 1926 to 1928, and his wife Phyllis do some swashbuckling with an amateur theater company in a photo taken circa 1910.
Today, Mumbai is home to India's "Bollywood," a vibrant Hindi film industry that brings in billions of dollars every year. In 2008, Bollywood produced roughly 800 feature films, outstripping Hollywood, which turned out only 630.
Father Browne/Universal Images Group/Getty Images
Cars compete with horse-drawn carriages in a Bombay intersection in 1929. Traffic has since grown rather more hectic in the city: Today, Mumbai tops India's vehicular emissions list for cities, despite having less than half as many cars as New Delhi. It also boasts India's longest average commute time at 47.26 minutes.
Fox Photos/Getty Images
A barge bearing the British naval flag carries King George V and Mary of Teck, the queen consort, to the shore in Bombay in 1911. India gained its independence from Britain in 1947. It has been the world's largest democracy ever since.
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ALEXANDER JAMES
1:38 PM ET
June 26, 2011
Bombay Rises
Horse drawn carriages, trollies, and other cool things from the turn of the century. Judging by this picture I'd say that's the turn of the 20th century not 21st.
At least I hope.
"The Alexandria of India" is a very cool distinction and 1 to be proud of.
Cool that they had Model T's even back then. Wonder if they had the appropriate insurance and savvy going up hill. Heard the T's had some problems with large hills because the gasoline would be pulled by gravity to the back of the tank and there was no fuel injectors back then.
Mumbai or Bombay is increasingly important as India rises in the world pecking order and as a financial center.
LB O'CONNOR
2:13 PM ET
June 28, 2011
Tepid article full of holes
Having traveled and studied the history of India (or Bharat of old) I am starting to develop some fine BS detectors for the kind of writing here.
The Washington Post readers would appreciate a few pointers form a man on the ground
1. Did you know that Mumbai is the original name of this region named after indigenous culture here of Goddess (Devi) Mumba. Travelling through India I am consistently appalled at the arrogance of the colonial occupiers especially the British who took upon themselves to mangle the pronunciation of towns that pre-date the renaissance Europe for starters, then accuse the Indians, especially the gracious Hindus of "right wing sentiments" when renaming cities that belong to them - eg Mumbai not Bombay, Kolkata not Calcutta, Chennai not Madras and so it goes.
2. For those familiar with even a rudiment of India's history - the Islamic occupation and the Islamofascist rulers caused untold horror post 900 AD to the Hindus, Buddists, Parsis (that escaped from a rapidly Islamo-barbaric Iran), the Jews escaping the Middle East, Syrian Christians and more. Where shall we start - charging the infidels a tax for being Islamic to burning down the world's oldest university - Nalanda (sorry Bologna, this is the cradle of civilization, not the ME)
The Maratha Emporer Shivaji - the founder of guerilla warfare in military tactics was instrumental post 1700 AD in defeating and pushing back the barbaric practices of the Islamic despot of the time and is a great hero to the Indians and a symbol of resistance to religious fundamentalism. It is appropriate that he be honored thus, given how the Indians created the Gateway of India at the entrance of Bombay Harbor for a mad English tyrant, King George.
3. I am consistently appalled at the "in-your-face" religious extremism displayed by Sunni muslims in the nation as a whole. The Shia, not so much and a much better integrated. Again, I stress the graciousness of the Hindus, Parsis, Buddhists and Christians in this great city - no other religion insists on shutting down busy roads on a Friday for Muslim prayers. Can you imagine shutting down Broadway NYC or Piccadilly CIrcus London so a religious sect , one of many devout, can pray? Time and time again, in Mumbai and other parts of the country most notably in Kashmir - the Islamofascism and criminal underworld that is sponsored by Saudi Arabian Wahabi extremism, and fanned by people in my part of the world make me question the integrity of journalists that gloss over this and defamewhat seems for me a very gracious nation for religious tolerance.
4. For the most part, an open apartheid existed in India during the British occupation for 300 years - what these posters dont document are the sign that read:
BRITISH ONLY. INDIANS AND DOGS NOT ALLOWED. The Taj Mahal hotel that you refer to in these photographs and which was the site of state-sponsored terrorism from across the border - was built by a beloved Parsi industriallist J. N. Tata - a Parsi. The reason he built this hotel open to all Indians - that overlooks the ocean in Mumbai, is because the hotel next doors was "British Only. Indians and Dogs not allowed".
I hope my years on the ground have highlighted the glaring gaps in your glossy little fluff piece with the typical pro-British, pro-Islamic, anti-India, Hindu-bashing that is so typical of armchair writers.
Ty McCormick, editorial researcher Foreign Policy indeed - Washington Post, really. Shite.
GONZOV
10:36 PM ET
July 1, 2011
Agreed.
Much appreciated comment, insight is always a delight.
QUINTELLECT
4:55 PM ET
July 12, 2011
Really Mr O'Conner?
Do you not see the same arrogance in what you have written? Of course, I wouldn't know my nose from my toes since I only have been born and raised in the city in question. In your using words like islamofascist and deification of Shivaji, clearly show you belong to the brand of quasi-historians who goes around denying holocausts happen.
Your comments are far more dangerous and insidious than the finger you point at the slightly naive Mr McCormick.
LB O'CONNOR
2:18 PM ET
June 28, 2011
Jaziya et al
Jaziya - a tax by the Islamists on the infidels or non-Muslims (hey that would be whole of the Hindu nation).
Doesnt it make you want to think about that naseous movie SlumDOG Millionaire in a whoe new light - most of my friends thought so.
Cheers.
JJCALE
7:31 PM ET
July 11, 2011
Beautiful photos
Inspired photography and selection of places and events from Bombay's past. On the text be fair it is a historical photo essay not a political analysis. Plenty of other FP's articles do that.
AUKPERSPECTIVE
12:02 PM ET
July 21, 2011
Compare and contrast.....
Yes British colonial rule was not perfect and yes India has some serious internal religous conflicts etc.
However whatever the faults of the past India is now a democracy, is growing fast, and its politics is not beholden to religious minorities (although has its problems too) That is the sort of cocktail I like and one which bodes well for the future.
Now let’s compare India to Pakistan next door which is not a democracy, is not growing and has politics beholden to some very nasty religious minorities. I know which country I would prefer to live in and which has the better prospects for its people. Give credit where credit is due.
Also let’s not forget the point made earlier that this article is a photo journal not a potted history of XYZ .
ALEXA233
9:08 AM ET
July 23, 2011
Once Upon a Time in Bombay
From horse-drawn carriages to rugby players, street scenes of India's megalopolis at the turn of the century. Do you not see the same arrogance in what you have written? Of course, I wouldn't know my nose from my toes since I only have been born and raised in the city in question. In your using words like islamofascist and deification of Shivaji, clearly show you belong to the brand of quasi-historians who goes around denying holocausts happen. Your comments are far more dangerous and insidious than the f payroll company Yes British colonial rule was not perfect and yes India has some serious internal religous conflicts etc. However whatever the faults of the past India is now a democracy, is growing fast, and its politics is not beholden to religious minorities (although has its problems too) That is the sort of cocktail I like and one which bodes well for the future. Now let’s compare India to Pakistan next door.
GINCHINCHILI
5:47 PM ET
July 24, 2011
The Transformation of Bombay
Almost entirely an english colonial creation, Bombay had become probably the most important seaports about the Arabian Sea by 1900. Underneath the stewardship from the British East India Company, the transformation of Bombay (now Mumbai) from an archipelago of island fishing villages to commercial center was swift; roads and railways sprang as much as connect the town towards the remaining subcontinent, along with a massive engineering project to backfill the region between your city's seven constituent islands was carried out 1845.