The Land of Lady Liberty

A photographer returns to Burma to find a nation transformed.

BY GEOFFREY HILLER | MARCH 30, 2012

After 50 years, the isolated nation of Burma -- which was cut off from much of the modern world by its military government for decades -- has begun opening up closed bureaucratic positions to civilians, freeing political prisoners, and most dramatically, allowing Nobel Peace Prize-winner Aung San Suu Kyi and her National League for Democracy (NLD) party to run for elections in April 2012 -- dramatic events in this mysterious Buddhist land once known mostly for its golden pagodas.

Photographer Geoffrey Hiller is one of a handful of journalists who has been quietly slipping into the country since 1987, before the 1988 democractic uprising and the subsequent arrest of Aung San Suu Kyi. In May 2011, he went back to the country for several months to photograph the capital, Yangon, and other places.

Six months later, in January 2012, hearing the news of Hillary Clinton's historic visit to Burma, Hiller flew back in. The country he found was "night-and-day different." 

Pictures and memorabilia of Aung San Suu Kyi and her father, Gen. Aung San -- once strictly banned -- appeared in the streets. And, for the first time ever, regular people began to talk openly: teachers, students, monks, nuns, doctors, and taxi drivers consented to be photographed and interviewed on film. Here's a slice of life inside a beautiful and rapidly changing Burma.

Above, supporters carry a portrait of  Aung San Suu Kyi  at a rally in the city of Pathein in February 2012. Until last fall, images of Aung San Suu Kyi were forbidden in Burma.

Geoffrey Hiller

 

Young Buddhist nuns with begging bowls walk through Yangon in February 2012. In Burma, both girls and boys take monastic vows for some period of their lives.

Geoffrey Hiller

NLD party members assemble before the Pathein rally in the early morning. 

Geoffrey Hiller

Supporters rally for Aung San Suu Kyi in Pathein in February 2012. Thousands, young and old, waited for hours to hear her speak at the NLD rally, one of the first permitted since 1988.

Geoffrey Hiller

A monk uses a computer in a Yangon monastery in June 2011. Internet use is still censored, according to the whims of the government, but limitations began to relax in 2011.

Geoffrey Hiller

A Yangon resident waits for a ferry on a pedestrian bridge over the Yangon River in May 2011.

Geoffrey Hiller

A young woman sits in a taxi in Yangon in May 2011. Most taxis in Burma are used vehicles from Japan, which means the steering wheel is on the right side of the car even though traffic also drives in the right lane.

Geoffrey Hiller



Colonial-era buildings in old town Yangon in February 2012. The British established the city, then called Rangoon, as the capitol in 1852 and brought in a mix of Asians, Hindus, Muslims, and Chinese, an ethnic metling pot that survives to this day.

Geoffrey Hiller

Women wait in front of a private pre-natal clinic in Yangon in February 2012. Burmese health care ranks among the worst in the world.

Geoffrey Hiller

A young monk stands next to a picture of Aung San Suu Kyi and her father Aung San in February 2012. Gen. Aung San, who was one of the key players in Burma's independence from British colonial rule, is considered "the father of independence" by many in the country. He established the Burmese Communist party and the modern Burmese army, but was assassinated in 1947.

Geoffrey Hiller

A girl rides in the back of a bicycle rickshaw, called a trishaw, in Yangon in February 2012. Despite recently discovered oil reserves, few can afford automobiles and gasoline is rationed and expensive.

Geoffrey Hiller

Boats bob on the edge of the Hpa-an river in February 2012. Isolation has left the countryside undeveloped, but the Burmese are concerned about the environment as the economy opens up. Recent opposition to a Chinese hydroelectric dam united the government and citizens.

Geoffrey Hiller

Muslim girls in a madrasa in Hpa-an in February 2012. The Muslim population in Burma is estimated to be between 5 and 10 percent of the country's population. 

Geoffrey Hiller

In a market in Yangon in February 2012, a T-shirt showcases both Aung San Suu Kyi and U.S. Secretary of State Hillary Clinton. Clinton made a historic visit to Burma in November 2011. 

Geoffrey Hiller

 

A man wears a T-shirt bearing Aung San Suu Kyi's face in an open air market in the city of Mawlamyine in February 2012. Motorcycles, which are often smuggled in from Thailand, are an expensive luxury.

Geoffrey Hiller

A Mawlamyine resident in February 2012.

Geoffrey Hiller

 

Geoffrey Hiller is a photographer who specializes in web documentaries. He was awarded a Fulbright Specialist Fellowship in 2011 and recently taught at Royal University of Phnom Penh. See his website for more of his work.