In the 1980s, an Asian investment boom brought multinational
corporations flooding into Bangkok, creating the bustling
hyper-modern city that pulsates with tourists and businessmen alike today.
With a population larger than New York City, Bangkok is now far and away the most
densely populated city in Thailand -- nearly a third of the country's 65 million citizens live in the metro region. But it wasn’t always like this: The city started
out as a somewhat sleepy trading post, along the Chao Prya river. It
remained an outpost until the 18th century, when what is now known as
Bangkok became the country’s capital city. Here’s a look back at the metropolis 100
years ago, when it was experiencing its first population explosion and serving
as neutral territory between the French and British colonial empires -- a time
when most people traveled through the city by rickshaw, and the city’s skyline
was still broken only by Buddhist temples.
Above, this 1900 floating dock was erected for the royal rite of passage called "Teaching the Prince How to Swim," marking the prince's passage into puberty. During the ritual, the prince descended into the river while Brahmin priests chanted.
Curator: Steve Van Beek
Residents of the gem quarter of Sampheng Lane, the
commercial center in the old city. In
this congested lane, Indians, Thais, and Chinese lived and worked in harmony.
Erected in 1908 at the corner of the Temple of the Emerald
Buddha on Rajdamnern Avenue, this twin-elephant gate welcomed King
Chulalongkorn -- who ruled from 1868 to 1910 -- on his return from a state visit to Europe.
Curator: Steve Van Beek
At the royal funeral of King Chulalongkorn, attendants watch the ceremony dressed in the royal costumes of 17th century Ayutthaya,
Siam's former capital.
New Road, Bangkok's first modern road, was built in 1863. It was about four miles
from the Grand Palace where Bangkok's royalty lived, through the heart of Chinatown and the European quarter
to the river. The mid-intersection kiosk
raised traffic policemen above the fray, but was so frequently the target of
errant drivers that it was abandoned after only a few years.
Curator: Steve Van Beek
A princess of the royal court in the reign of King
Chulalongkorn, shortly after women had adopted European fashions.
Curator: Steve Van Beek
The Golden Mount, built in 1880, replicates a similar
artificial mountain in the former royal capital of Ayutthaya. In 1957 -- the
2,50oth anniversary of Buddha's birth -- relics from the Buddha's life were
placed in it.
Curator: Steve Van Beek
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Thais were quick to adopt new European inventions. The
gramophone was among the most popular. Here, a group of princesses delight in
the music emanating from the machine's polished bell.
Curator: Steve Van Beek
A tram taking commuters to businesses on the other side of
the city in the early 1900s.
Curator: Steve Van Beek
Mahachai Road ran just inside the city wall, from
Rajdamnern, the royal avenue, through India Town and on to the river. Down both sides ran the tram, which was installed by
Danish engineers in 1893, 10 years before Copenhagen or Tokyo had one.
Curator: Steve Van Beek
Cars were introduced to Bangkok around 1904. By 1908, some 300 were running about the city. Here, an auto rally is in progress down the royal boulevard past Sanam Luang, the royal cremation ground. Barely visible in the distance is Wat Phra Kaew, the Temple of the Emerald Buddha.
Curator: Steve Van Beek
A car club in Sanam Luang, the royal cremation ground, with
the Temple of the Emerald Buddha in the background.
Curator: Steve Van Beek
The Giant Swing was erected early in the 19th
century for an annual ritual to honor the god Siva. Teams swung to great
heights to snatch a bag of gold. In 1925, however, the rite was declared perilous and
was abolished.
Curator: Steve Van Beek
A view of the New Road near the Grand Palace a century ago. There are few people,
few overhead wires, and a silence broken only by the squeaking of horse
carriages and the padding feet of men pulling jin rickshaws.
Curator: Steve Van Beek
Women gathered in a floating house on the Chao Phraya River
that flows through Bangkok.
Curator: Steve Van Beek
A mother sits with her daughter in a palace belonging to a high noble.
Curator: Steve Van Beek
Sikaek Phiyasi, a key intersection along New Road, was
dominated by a pharmacy selling both European and herbal medicines.
Curator: Steve Van Beek
Lakhon -- a Thai genre of theater -- dancers
perform an episode from the Sanskrit classic dance-drama, the Ramakhien, depicting the ancient saga of Rama and Sita.
Curator: Steve Van Beek
Hanuman, the sacred white monkey guardian of Rama and Sita,
threatens a group of demons in a Khon masked
dance performance.
Curator: Steve Van Beek
In 1900, horse carriages and dogcarts were still the
principal means of transportation through the city. Here, it passes the city wall with the city
prison on the left. Note the tram tracks
running along the wall.
Curator: Steve Van Beek
The juncture of Yaowarat and New Roads, the main
thoroughfares through Chinatown. This is
a busy tram stop on a festival day. Note the gold-leafed wooden elephant at center.
Curator: Steve Van Beek
A
view of Bangkok, circa 1890, with traditional stilt houses and boats
along the canal in the foreground. Many of the wats, or temples, remain
to this day; the quiet, leafy city -- once known as the Venice of the
East -- however, is long gone.
Curator: Steve Van Beek
A postman makes a delivery.
These photos were curated by Steve Van Beek.
Curator: Steve Van Beek
