THE CROSSING

THE CROSSING

Three Weeks in a Hopeless Land

I returned to a place I saw liberated in 2001. Now the Taliban are back, and the only thing that has improved is the cell-phone reception.

Anna Badkhen |

THE CROSSING

My Afghan Home

Nearing the end of the road, our diarist reflects on the unlikely sanctuary she found in a blighted land.

Anna Badkhen |

THE CROSSING

Eternal Enemies, One Mile Apart

Our correspondent visits two Afghan villages hardened by centuries of hatred -- and separated by only a short stretch of road.

Anna Badkhen |

THE CROSSING

In the Children's Ward

Visiting the pediatrics center at an Afghan city hospital, in a country where only three out of four children live to be five.

Anna Badkhen |

THE CROSSING

Homesick for Nowhere

Refugees from a place that no longer exists, these Afghan settlers live in a slapped-together collection of tents on land that belongs to their ancestral enemy.

Anna Badkhen |

THE CROSSING

Is the U.S. Airlifting Taliban Troops into Northern Afghanistan?

No. But the question itself poses more questions than you might think.

Anna Badkhen |

THE CROSSING

Warped Lives

In a tiny room with no door, in a village with no roads, a drugged woman ties thousands of knots to weave a rug for others to walk on.

Anna Badkhen |

THE CROSSING

Afghanistan's Little Men

Stopping through Mazar-e-Sharif, our correspondent witnesses one of the most disturbing side effects of the region's poverty: young boys with old faces.

Anna Badkhen |

THE CROSSING

Afghanistan's Boys in Blue

With cops like these, who needs robbers? Our diarist meets one of Afghanistan's finest.

Anna Badkhen |

THE CROSSING

How Do Afghans Relax?

They go take a hike -- and so does our diarist, spending a day of leisure on hills that were once bloody battlefields.

Anna Badkhen |

THE CROSSING

Helpless to Help in Afghanistan's Local Government

Back in Kunduz, encounters with the unfortunate men whose job it is to keep northern Afghans safe and secure.

Anna Badkhen |

THE CROSSING

Ruins and Reunions

Our correspondent finds her friends, at last.

Anna Badkhen |

THE CROSSING

Earthquakes and Other Disturbances

Beginning the second week of her journey, our diarist encounters some shaky territory on the way to Kunduz.

Anna Badkhen |

THE CROSSING

The Muezzin of the Blue Mosque

Finding some solace with an unlikely old friend.

Anna Badkhen |

THE CROSSING

'Who Needs a Playground When the Children Are Dying?'

The government told them it was finally safe to come back -- even built them a clinic, a school, a playground. But what good's a playground when you have nothing to eat? Day 5 on our diarist's journey through Northern Afghanistan.

Anna Badkhen |

THE CROSSING

Digging Out in Afghanistan's Forgotten Village

On the third day of her journey, our correspondent visits a town buried in mud -- and trying to recover with no help from either the government or the Taliban.

Anna Badkhen |

THE CROSSING

Afghanistan's Multiple Personalities

Our diarist flies from Kabul to Mazar-e-Sharif, carrying photos of old, lost friends.

Anna Badkhen |

THE CROSSING

The Crossing: A Journey Through North Afghanistan

"Don't even dare travel on that road": In the first entry of a month-long travel diary, our correspondent ponders maps and routes in Kabul.

Anna Badkhen |