I returned to a place I saw liberated in 2001. Now the Taliban are back, and the only thing that has improved is the cell-phone reception.
Nearing the end of the road, our diarist reflects on the unlikely sanctuary she found in a blighted land.
Our correspondent visits two Afghan villages hardened by centuries of hatred -- and separated by only a short stretch of road.
Visiting the pediatrics center at an Afghan city hospital, in a country where only three out of four children live to be five.
Refugees from a place that no longer exists, these Afghan settlers live in a slapped-together collection of tents on land that belongs to their ancestral enemy.
No. But the question itself poses more questions than you might think.
In a tiny room with no door, in a village with no roads, a drugged woman ties thousands of knots to weave a rug for others to walk on.
Stopping through Mazar-e-Sharif, our correspondent witnesses one of the most disturbing side effects of the region's poverty: young boys with old faces.
With cops like these, who needs robbers? Our diarist meets one of Afghanistan's finest.
They go take a hike -- and so does our diarist, spending a day of leisure on hills that were once bloody battlefields.
Back in Kunduz, encounters with the unfortunate men whose job it is to keep northern Afghans safe and secure.
Beginning the second week of her journey, our diarist encounters some shaky territory on the way to Kunduz.
Visiting the victims of Afghanistan's revenge rapes.
The government told them it was finally safe to come back -- even built them a clinic, a school, a playground. But what good's a playground when you have nothing to eat? Day 5 on our diarist's journey through Northern Afghanistan.
On the third day of her journey, our correspondent visits a town buried in mud -- and trying to recover with no help from either the government or the Taliban.
Our diarist flies from Kabul to Mazar-e-Sharif, carrying photos of old, lost friends.