Mad dog no more? In front of Qaddafi’s Libyan mansion, a rusted sculpture still reminds the leader of nearly four decades of his perilous, anti-American past. Journalists and visitors still warn that Libya is a difficult and often unfriendly place to visit, where surveillance is the rule rather than the exception. In a speech in Tripoli on Sept. 1, Qaddafi laid out some of his new, capitalist economic ideas—quite a stretch from his Soviet and Green Book days. “When we apply this system [capitalism],” he said, “we will not worry about anything else. But if we do not establish it, it would be dangerous and would leave things in the hands of the ruler.” Only time will tell if Qaddafi is serious.