A stone’s throw away: The trade route may have opened, but many in Jammu and Kashmir want an even more momentous change: independence from India. Here, Kashmiri men throw rocks at the Indian military in Srinagar on Oct. 12. In the past few months, the city has experienced the largest pro-independence demonstrations since the armed separatist insurgency began in 1989. Tourists have deserted the area, with hotel occupancy plummeting from 100 percent in May to virtually zero in September.